Maison Manhes: Couture, Culture & Creative Connection in CDMX

Born in Bogotá to a French father and Mexican mother, Isabelle Manhes Loaeza has spent her life at the crossroads of cultures. A graduate of Parsons School of Design in New York and former collaborator of Marc Jacobs, her trajectory has taken her from the rough edges of Tepito where she learnt the traditional craft to the ateliers in New York and the vibrant streets of San Miguel de Allende. With a multidisciplinary approach that weaves together haute couture, performance, illustration, and costume design, her creations have graced fashion weeks, top museums, and even the silver screen. Now, after years of international work and acclaim—Isabelle is relocating to Mexico City, opening an appointment-only showroom in Polanco.

To celebrate this new chapter, a select group of artists, creatives, and longtime collaborators gathered last week for an immersive evening at her new space—where opera, contemporary dance, mezcal “Coyuca Sin Resaca”, and home-cooked flavors came together in a sensorial, unforgettable experience.

In this exclusive interview, The Mexico City Edit speaks with the designer about her return to the capital, the inspiration behind her newest chapter, and why she believes fashion is a language for the soul.

Welcome back to Mexico City! What inspired your return after spending so many years abroad and more recently in San Miguel de Allende?

What inspired me is that here in Mexico City, there’s a lot going on. It’s a Mecca of creativity and exchange. It’s an opportunity for me to reload my narrative, which has been constructed from all the years I’ve been working on dressing people, having a store, and exploring various avenues. Now, I feel more comfortable from my home to develop that essence of creativity.

How did your time living in places like New York, Paris, and San Miguel shape your creative voice as a designer?

It’s always a melting pot. From the modern to the classic to the fantasy to the eccentric.

Can you tell us a bit about your experience running a shop in San Miguel, and how it compares to opening your new showroom in Polanco?

I had a store in San Miguel de Allende. Everybody knows you and gets to know your work from entering the store. That really builds your character and self-esteem because you see the response right away. I’m very excited about my showroom. It´s by appointment, so I can give my service very personally. I think it’s better this way because it’s a privilege that someone gives you their energy, experience, and expertise in a one to one session.

Your work often blends fashion, art, and history. What themes or ideas are you exploring in this new space?

I’m exploring themes that delve into personal narratives and timeless stories. One of the first themes I’m working on is “Penelope,” inspired by the mythological figure who weaves and unweaves her tapestry, waiting for her husband’s return. This theme speaks to the process of creation, the act of waiting, and the personal journey of self-discovery.

What does “Mexican fashion” mean to you today, and how do you think it’s evolving?

Mexican fashion has so much to say because we are influenced by many cultures from different times. We have el charro, los huicholes, chiapanecos, huastecos—so many regions that you can get inspired by. They are inspired by their needs in that moment and their relationship with their cosmogony. The culture we have intertwined and woven together is about the techniques we’ve inherited and observations of how the world is moving towards. Mexican fashion is about pushing a little bit further the idea that you have to get dressed. I would question people not to get too influenced by outside influences and to keep exploring our ancestral techniques and wild color selection. I think it’s something we need to rescue—color. Definitely!

Tell us about the immersive experience you planned for the opening of your showroom. Who were your collaborators and why did you decide to work with them?

For the kick off event, we had Jacinta Barbachano, a magical opera singer, and I also invited dancers Amaranta Jacome y Claudia Llanos, because they are wonderful catalysts. We had poetry, delicious drinks, food and wonderful guests.

Finally, what can visitors expect when they walk into the Isabelle Manhes showroom for the first time

When you come to my showroom, I give you my time. You’ll feel special—because what I create is special. What I offer is energy. I enhance the vibration of the experience. You’ll leave transformed.